{"id":171295,"date":"2025-03-05T12:18:51","date_gmt":"2025-03-05T10:18:51","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/blog.nli.org.il\/?p=171295"},"modified":"2025-03-12T13:46:08","modified_gmt":"2025-03-12T11:46:08","slug":"delis","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blognli2026.moonsite.co.il\/en\/delis\/","title":{"rendered":"Gimme a Pastrami on Rye!"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>In a Super Bowl commercial in February that reprised their epic scene in <em>When Harry Met Sally<\/em>, Meg Ryan sat at a restaurant table across from Billy Crystal, her co-star in the 1989 film, and claimed to improve her meat sandwich by spritzing mayonnaise on it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>Mayonnaise<\/em>, Meg? How could you?<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-embed is-type-video is-provider-youtube wp-block-embed-youtube wp-embed-aspect-16-9 wp-has-aspect-ratio\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<iframe title=\"Meg Ryan and Billy Crystal reunite for \u2018When Harry Met Sally\u2019 Super Bowl 2025 ad\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/Qa9YiwYHwZE?feature=oembed\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share\" referrerpolicy=\"strict-origin-when-cross-origin\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Thankfully, the commercial got this right: The spot was filmed where the movie scene had been shot, at Katz\u2019s Delicatessen, on Manhattan\u2019s Lower East Side.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>At least that establishment, founded more than a century ago, is still around and thriving. But Katz\u2019s Delicatessen remains an anomaly. With the generation of immigrant Jews \u2014 those who established and first patronized such restaurants in most major North American cities \u2014 and the majority of their children having died out, and with assimilation taking its toll, far fewer delis remain to offer up corned beef and pastrami sandwiches on rye with brown mustard (I\u2019m looking at you, Meg), hot dogs on buns with sauerkraut, kishke, <em>gribbenes<\/em>, potato knishes, <em>schmaltz<\/em>, matzo ball soup, sour pickles and other East European delicacies.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"547\" height=\"534\" src=\"https:\/\/blog.nli.org.il\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/1976.jpg\" alt=\"1976\" class=\"wp-image-171371\" srcset=\"https:\/\/blognli2026.moonsite.co.il\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/1976.jpg 547w, https:\/\/blognli2026.moonsite.co.il\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/1976-300x293.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 547px) 100vw, 547px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">You could even find a &#8220;Lower East Side Deli&#8221; in sunny California. An ad in the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.nli.org.il\/en\/newspapers\/jweekly\/1976\/09\/10\/article\/88.1\/?e=-------en-20--1--img-txIN%7ctxTI--------------1\" class=\"ek-link\">September 10, 1976 edition of <em>J. Jewish News of Northern California<\/em><\/a>, the Historical Jewish Press Collection at the National Library of Israel<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<p>Delis that remain trade on modern patrons\u2019 appreciation for the nostalgia, stories, aromas and tastes lovingly passed down to them. A deli was \u201ca social hub, a place to go to be with other Jews,\u201d said cookbook author Shannon Sarna Goldberg. \u201cIt was a cultural gathering place.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"658\" height=\"428\" src=\"https:\/\/blog.nli.org.il\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/1897-1.jpg\" alt=\"1897 1\" class=\"wp-image-171420\" srcset=\"https:\/\/blognli2026.moonsite.co.il\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/1897-1.jpg 658w, https:\/\/blognli2026.moonsite.co.il\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/1897-1-300x195.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 658px) 100vw, 658px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">A 19th-century ad for Auerbach&#8217;s Delicatessen in Chicago, Illinois. From the September 11, 1897 edition of <em><a href=\"https:\/\/www.nli.org.il\/en\/newspapers\/refadv\/1897\/09\/11\/01\/article\/41.1\/?e=-------en-20--1--img-txIN%7ctxTI--------------1\" class=\"ek-link\">The Reform Advocate<\/a><\/em>, the Historical Jewish Press Collection at the National Library of Israel<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<p>Eating at Yitz\u2019s Delicatessen as a boy in Toronto meant experiencing, along with the food, \u201ca transformative, immersive atmosphere,\u201d said David Sax, a freelance journalist and city resident who in 2009 wrote the book <em><a href=\"https:\/\/www.nli.org.il\/en\/books\/NNL_ALEPH990026883730205171\/NLI\">Save the Deli: In Search of Perfect Pastrami, Crusty Rye, and the Heart of Jewish Delicatessen.<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Yitz\u2019s, which closed in 2019, \u201cwasn\u2019t just another restaurant; it was a full sensory experience,\u201d he said. \u201cIt\u2019s a Jewish environment \u2026 that\u2019s hard to replicate. It\u2019s that atmosphere, that calm, that <em>ta\u2019am<\/em>, that soulful flavor.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>In the United States and Canada, anyway.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"792\" height=\"565\" src=\"https:\/\/blog.nli.org.il\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/Wally.jpg\" alt=\"Wally\" class=\"wp-image-171405\" srcset=\"https:\/\/blognli2026.moonsite.co.il\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/Wally.jpg 792w, https:\/\/blognli2026.moonsite.co.il\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/Wally-300x214.jpg 300w, https:\/\/blognli2026.moonsite.co.il\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/Wally-768x548.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 792px) 100vw, 792px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">An ad for Wally&#8217;s Kosher Deli in Lincolnwood, Illinois. Wally&#8217;s served &#8220;corned beef, pastrami, bologna, franks, salami and similar products, plus all the accessories that go with them.&#8221; From the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.nli.org.il\/en\/newspapers\/cgs\/1972\/10\/05\/01\/article\/75\/?e=-------en-20--1--img-txIN%7ctxTI--------------1\" class=\"ek-link\">October 5, 1972 edition of <em>The Sentinel<\/em><\/a>, the Historical Jewish Press Collection at the National Library of Israel<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>But what kind of <em>ferkakte<\/em> world do we live in, that in the only Jewish state on the planet \u2013 even with its significant Ashkenazi population \u2013 delis and deli food were never a thing?<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Joan Nathan, the acclaimed, Washington, D.C.-based cookbook author, explained it thus: that the Zionist pioneers reaching the Land of Israel in the late 19th and early 20th centuries to work the land created not only a new Jew, but new Jewish food. The Middle East\u2019s intense heat and paucity of fleshy cows suitable for beef meant that vegetables and legumes and salads became staples of the updated Jewish diet and that red meat was de-emphasized in favor of poultry \u2014 consumption habits Israel continues today.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The situation, though, inclines to the absurd. An American immigrant shopping in an Israeli supermarket is rightfully incensed upon gleefully reaching for a package of sliced meat labeled \u201cpastrami\u201d only to realize at first glance what it is: turkey. No marketing doublespeak \u2014 honey-roasted pastrami or barbecue-flavored pastrami \u2014 can mislead us. Deli 101: If it lacks beef and some fat, and if garlic\u2019s scent doesn\u2019t burst through the plastic wrapping, it\u2019s not pastrami.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>In a country emphasizing lighter fare than in eastern Europe, meat-heavy meals \u201cjust didn\u2019t fit,\u201d said Nathan, who lived in Jerusalem in the early 1970s and whose cookbooks include <em><a href=\"https:\/\/www.nli.org.il\/en\/books\/NNL_ALEPH990021552350205171\/NLI\">Foods of Israel Today<\/a><\/em> and <em><a href=\"https:\/\/www.nli.org.il\/en\/books\/NNL_ALEPH990021094260205171\/NLI\">The Flavor of Jerusalem<\/a><\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>In a recent phone interview for this article, Nathan also cited Israeli author Amos Elon\u2019s book <em><a href=\"https:\/\/www.nli.org.il\/en\/books\/NNL_ALEPH990018420600205171\/NLI\">The Israelis: Founders and Sons<\/a><\/em> in explaining early kibbutzniks\u2019 living off the land\u2019s bounty in informal meals rather than digging into labor-intensive main dishes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cOn the kibbutz, you threw food on the table,\u201d Nathan said. \u201cIt was totally different from the table-centered, heavy cuisine\u201d they\u2019d left behind in Europe, she said.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"942\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/blog.nli.org.il\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/lunch-942x600.jpg\" alt=\"Lunch\" class=\"wp-image-171377\" srcset=\"https:\/\/blognli2026.moonsite.co.il\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/lunch-942x600.jpg 942w, https:\/\/blognli2026.moonsite.co.il\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/lunch-300x191.jpg 300w, https:\/\/blognli2026.moonsite.co.il\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/lunch-768x489.jpg 768w, https:\/\/blognli2026.moonsite.co.il\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/lunch.jpg 1046w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 942px) 100vw, 942px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Lunch at Kibbutz Ginosar, Israel, 1978. A world apart from the North American deli. <a href=\"https:\/\/www.nlitest.org.il\/he\/images\/NNL_ARCHIVE_AL990045873250205171\/NLI#$FL62578970\" class=\"ek-link\">Photo<\/a> by IPPA staff, the Dan Hadani Archive, the Pritzker Family National Photography Collection at the National Library of Israel<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Nuts to that, I thought upon entering Sender, a tiny, 28-seat restaurant on Tel Aviv\u2019s Levinsky Street. I craved a deliciously carnivorous trip back in time to when my parents took me to Pastrami King and Ben\u2019s Best, delectable delicatessens in Queens, N.Y., that are no more.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>So it was on a gloomy winter\u2019s afternoon that Sender\u2019s manager, Yael Shriber, placed on my table a bowl of chicken soup with <em>kreplach<\/em> and individual saucers of chopped liver \u2014 \u201cYou can\u2019t eat it with a fork! You have to spread it on rye bread!\u201d Shriber sweetly castigated \u2014 egg salad, gefilte fish with red horseradish, and chopped pickles. All except the bread were homemade, a source of pride for Shriber, whose husband\u2019s Holocaust-survivor parents founded the restaurant in 1948.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"450\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/blog.nli.org.il\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/IMG_7227-450x600.jpeg\" alt=\"Img 7227\" class=\"wp-image-171353\" srcset=\"https:\/\/blognli2026.moonsite.co.il\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/IMG_7227-450x600.jpeg 450w, https:\/\/blognli2026.moonsite.co.il\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/IMG_7227-225x300.jpeg 225w, https:\/\/blognli2026.moonsite.co.il\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/IMG_7227-768x1024.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/blognli2026.moonsite.co.il\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/IMG_7227-1152x1536.jpeg 1152w, https:\/\/blognli2026.moonsite.co.il\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/IMG_7227-1536x2048.jpeg 1536w, https:\/\/blognli2026.moonsite.co.il\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/IMG_7227-scaled.jpeg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 450px) 100vw, 450px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Chopped liver at Sender, in Tel Aviv, Israel, photo by Hillel Kuttler<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<p>Everything was tasty, comforting and oozing culinary love. Then there were the menu\u2019s delicacies she <em>didn\u2019t<\/em> dish up that I wished I could order, too: <em>tzimmes<\/em>, kasha, stuffed peppers, herring with tomato, goulash, tongue, cholent and fruit compote. What my late Grandma Rozzie, who periodically fantasized about her immigrant mother\u2019s <em>p\u2019tcha<\/em>, pickled cow feet, would\u2019ve given to pull up a chair here, I thought. And how my father Norman of blessed memory would\u2019ve devoured the sliced tongue and brought along a can of Dr. Brown\u2019s cel-ray soda to wash it down.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cYou see people, everyday, shedding tears\u201d while eating, Shriber said of her customers \u2014 and journalists, too, no doubt, judging by the framed reviews and feature stories filling most of the limited wall space.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/blog.nli.org.il\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/IMG_7229-800x600.jpeg\" alt=\"Img 7229\" class=\"wp-image-171357\" srcset=\"https:\/\/blognli2026.moonsite.co.il\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/IMG_7229-800x600.jpeg 800w, https:\/\/blognli2026.moonsite.co.il\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/IMG_7229-300x225.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/blognli2026.moonsite.co.il\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/IMG_7229-768x576.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/blognli2026.moonsite.co.il\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/IMG_7229-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w, https:\/\/blognli2026.moonsite.co.il\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/IMG_7229-2048x1536.jpeg 2048w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Yael Shriber, the manager at Sender, photo by Hillel Kuttler<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cIt reminds them of good things. It\u2019s the smell of home. \u2026 This food is authentic.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>So much so that Shlomo Pivko said the spread he orders most weeks from Sender for a post-prayers Shabbat kiddush draws worshipers to Tel Aviv\u2019s Great Synagogue, of which he is president.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cWe want people not just to come for the services, but for the Judaism,\u201d he said.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Judaism, apparently, means food. The man talks sense.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"450\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/blog.nli.org.il\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/IMG_7226-450x600.jpeg\" alt=\"Img 7226\" class=\"wp-image-171361\" srcset=\"https:\/\/blognli2026.moonsite.co.il\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/IMG_7226-450x600.jpeg 450w, https:\/\/blognli2026.moonsite.co.il\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/IMG_7226-225x300.jpeg 225w, https:\/\/blognli2026.moonsite.co.il\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/IMG_7226-768x1024.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/blognli2026.moonsite.co.il\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/IMG_7226-1152x1536.jpeg 1152w, https:\/\/blognli2026.moonsite.co.il\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/IMG_7226-1536x2048.jpeg 1536w, https:\/\/blognli2026.moonsite.co.il\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/IMG_7226-scaled.jpeg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 450px) 100vw, 450px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Sender&#8217;s gefilte fish, photo by Hillel Kuttler<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<p>Pivko had just polished off a plate of chopped liver and gefilte fish with horseradish. His patronizing the place, Pivko explained, honors his late father, a Holocaust survivor from Poland, who worked as a mover and favored a Sender lunch of chicken soup, chopped liver, herring and bread.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cWhen I order [from the restaurant],\u201d Pivko said, \u201cit takes me back to when I\u2019d eat here with my father.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>Writer-editor Hillel Kuttler can be reached at hk@HillelTheScribeCommunications.com<\/em>.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Delicatessens once served up Jewish comfort food, but have been disappearing in recent decades. In North America and even in Israel, some outposts remain, though the concept of the &#8220;Jewish Deli&#8221; never really caught on in the Jewish state.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":450,"featured_media":171562,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[216],"tags":[1737,1832,1873,1536,1690],"tags2":[2784,2749,3067,2706,2651,2738],"class_list":["post-171295","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-diaspora","tag-american-jewry","tag-ashkenazic-jewry","tag-jewish-communities","tag-jewish-culture","tag-jewish-food"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v24.8 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Gimme a Pastrami on Rye!<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Delicatessens once served up Jewish comfort food, but have been disappearing in recent decades. 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