{"id":163502,"date":"2024-10-14T14:45:16","date_gmt":"2024-10-14T11:45:16","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/blog.nli.org.il\/?p=163502"},"modified":"2024-10-14T14:45:22","modified_gmt":"2024-10-14T11:45:22","slug":"etrog_man","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blognli2026.moonsite.co.il\/en\/etrog_man\/","title":{"rendered":"\u00a0The Legacy of the Etrog Man"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

\u201cIt\u2019s sour and bitter. It\u2019s fun and fresh. I\u2019d maybe add something sweet, and maybe add carbonation,\u201d said Yali Ben David when asked how she liked the fruit drink she\u2019d just consumed at a kiosk in Netanya\u2019s Ir Yamim Mall on the last week of 5784 \u2014 a beverage she\u2019d never tasted before.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The fruit drink? Etrog.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The yellow citron, which resembles a lemon but with bumps, returns to the consciousness of Jews this time of year, with the approach of the week-long festival of Sukkot (Tabernacles) that will begin the evening of Oct. 16. An etrog is one of four species \u2014 along with a palm branch and leaves from myrtle and willow trees \u2014 that the Bible commands Jews to gather on the first day of Sukkot. Later in history, Jews took to making a blessing while holding the Four Species at home or in a sukkah (a temporary hut built for the holiday) or at a synagogue, a custom that continues now.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"Etrogdanhadani2
An etrog is held up for examination, 1978. Photo<\/a> by Dan Hadani, the Dan Hadani Archive, the Pritzker Family National Photography Collection, the National Library of Israel<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

The relevant biblical verse, Leviticus 23:40, doesn\u2019t specify a citron or any other species. \u201cAnd you shall take for yourselves on the first day the fruit of the beautiful tree,\u201d it states. But religious authorities in Talmudic times ruled that the etrog, native to Israel, was the designated fruit, and it\u2019s remained one of the holiday\u2019s symbols ever since.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"Photohouse1949
Etrogs on sale in a “Four Species” market, Tel Aviv, 1949. Photo<\/a> by Rudi Weissenstein, all rights reserved to Pri-Or PhotoHouse, the Pritzker Family National Photography Collection, the National Library of Israel<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

In the days and weeks preceding Sukkot, traditionally beginning with the conclusion of Yom Kippur, celebrants buy the Four Species, which usually are sold together in stores and at tables set out on sidewalks. The most devoted among them seek out the choicest etrog they can find, even bringing magnifying glasses and jewelers\u2019 loupes to carefully inspect each etrog and rule out those with seemingly minute blemishes. Some spend \u2014 take a deep breath here \u2014 thousands of dollars for a choice etrog.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

More than that: Over the centuries, craftspeople designed wooden and silver boxes to hold etrogim during the holiday, and etrog cases remain a mainstay of Judaica in communities worldwide.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"990045920190205171\"
A religious Israeli family and their etrog boxes. Photo<\/a> by IPPA staff, the Dan Hadani Archive, the Pritzker Family National Photography Collection, the National Library of Israel<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

When the holiday ends, etrogim, whatever their value, usually are discarded or added to compost. Some people chop them, especially the peel, for etrog jam, akin to orange marmalade.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

And that\u2019s all I knew about the possibilities for an etrog.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

That is, until I walked through Jerusalem\u2019s Machne Yehuda market a decade ago and stumbled upon a small shop near Agrippas Street. Its name: The Etrog Man.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Intrigued by the idea that someone was so enamored of etrogim as to adopt the citron as a moniker, and lured by the man\u2019s plastic dispensers of freshly squeezed fruit drinks, I approached. The owner pitched his concoctions, most of them made from etrog. He talked up one drink when he saw me viewing the dispenser with this sign: Viagra from Nature. Unsurprisingly, he touted it as an aphrodisiac.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"Etrogman
The late Uzieli Hazay, “the Etrog Man,” courtesy of https:\/\/www.etrogman.com\/<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

I didn\u2019t catch The Etrog Man\u2019s name then or on a subsequent visit to his shop at the Allenby Street entrance to Tel Aviv\u2019s Carmel Market.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I learned his name, Uzieli Hazay, only now, in mid-September, during a return visit to Machne Yehuda. Uzieli passed away two years ago, said his son, Or, who now runs the family business, which includes the two markets\u2019 shops and a line of etrog-derived products he sells there and at special events, like the weeklong Machne Yehuda Festival at the Netanya mall.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

There, he spritzed etrog facial skin spray onto my cheeks and \u2014 get this \u2014 into my mouth. I asked how the spray could be safe to ingest. \u201cBecause it\u2019s natural,\u201d he said.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A woman asked about the spray, and he repeated the routine on her. He requested that she extend her wrist, onto which he daubed some etrog creme. \u201cIt\u2019s anti-aging [creme],\u201d he told her.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

She smelled it but left without purchasing a container. The etrog is good for the skin, Hazay explained later: It works on pigmentation, and helps teens with acne and older people with wrinkles. He also sells etrog soap, which presumably also is healthy. Less known are the benefits of his etrog beer. All of the packaged etrog paraphernalia feature caricatures of Uzieli.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The etrog\u2019s becoming the basis of the Hazay family\u2019s income merits a story, and this is it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Uzieli Hazay was from Yemen, and as a child he and his family made aliyah<\/em> \u2014 immigrated to Israel \u2014 in about 1950. They lived on Moshav Eshtaol, a few miles west of Jerusalem, where they grew produce and raised goats and cows. Interested in nutrition and healthy eating, Uzieli was drawn to the teachings of Maimonides, the 12th century rabbi and physician famed as Rambam, who touted the etrog\u2019s qualities. In Uzieli\u2019s youth, Hazay said, Yemenite parents wanting to eliminate their children\u2019s stuttering would boil etrog peels and have them drink the liquid. Later on, Uzieli concocted beverages from boiled fruit and other products.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cHe wanted to create drinks to strengthen the body, focus and energy,\u201d Hazay said.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"Or
Or Hazay peeks between some of the products he sells – etrog beer and etrog soap. Photo by Hillel Kuttler<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

At his Netanya kiosk at the busy mall, Hazay sliced what I knew was an etrog, which he called an \u201cAskenazi etrog.\u201d He then sliced an enormous, oval-shaped fruit that was not much smaller than an American football. Its green and beige surface was extremely bumpy. This, he said, was a \u201cYemenite etrog,\u201d albeit one grown in Israel. The halves of each etrog species were so pulpy as to defy any expectation that quantities of juice hid within.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But they did, and Hazay\u2019s three main etrog-based drinks at the kiosk were those combined with lemon juice, grapefruit juice \u2014 \u201cIt\u2019s good for pregnant women,\u201d Hazay told a female customer \u2013 or the leaves of khat (written and pronounced in Hebrew as gat<\/em>). Hazay and Itamar Peled, Ben David\u2019s boyfriend, said they knew from their Yemenite backgrounds that men and even boys in the Old Country chewed on khat for their stimulants, to keep them alert during long study sessions of Jewish religious texts.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"11179
An etrog farmer, 1978. Photo<\/a> by Dan Hadani, the Dan Hadani Archive, the Pritzker Family National Photography Collection, the National Library of Israel<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Hazay buys his etrogim from farmers in Israel, Morocco and Calabria, Italy. He also grows his own at Eshtaol. Hazay said he has no idea of the quantity he uses in a month.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

On this morning, Even Yehuda residents Guy and Hila Greenberg and their young daughters stopped by for a drink: etrog, grapefruit and khat whirred together with some cane sugar.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Guy Greenberg\u2019s friend had tried it at the stand the day before and recommended it. The Greenberg couple enjoyed it, too, he said.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Another customer, Shlomo Hershko, stopped by 10 minutes later.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cWhat can I say? It\u2019s not for me,\u201d said Hershko, of Herzliya. \u201cSome people like it; some, not.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Hazay was nonplussed. His t-shirt read, \u201c100 percent from nature and squeezed with love.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Writer-editor Hillel Kuttler can be reached at <\/em>hk@HillelTheScribeCommunications.com<\/em><\/a>.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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